ALL CREATURES GREAT AND SMALL THEN AND NOW: ASKRIGG AND GRASSINGTON, YORKSHIRE DALES

 All Creatures Great and Small, an everyday tale of veterinary doings and country folk in the Yorkshire Dales based on a series of books by James Herriot, first hit our screens in 1978 and was enough of a hit for the series to last until 1990.  Last year, a remake of the series began screening, with a whole new cast and a new set of locations, still in the Yorkshire Dales.  Both series centre around the fictional village of Darrowby, but the real-life locations are different for each.

The Darrowby of the original series was mostly represented by Askrigg in Wensleydale.  The frontage of the vets surgery seen in the series is in real life that of Skeldale House, which now offers self-catering apartments for anyone wanting to immerse themselves in the Darrowby experience.  The vets often spent their leisure time supping in the local pub The Drover’s Arms.  The real life hostelry used in the series is The King’s Arms, which still bears reminders of the filming with photos adorning the walls.

The King's Arms, Askrigg

The latest series switches the action to Grassington in Upper Wharfedale as the setting for Darrowby.  The Drover’s Arms is still the watering hole of choice for the vets, but in this series two different pubs are used: the Green Dragon at Hardraw, a mile or so north of Hawes, famous for the Hardraw Force waterfall, is used for the interior shots, and the Devonshire in Grassington for the exterior shots.  The delightfully eccentric Mrs Pumphrey, one of the vets’ clients, features heavily in the new version – she was originally played by the late Diana Rigg, but following her sad death has been replaced by Patricia Hodge.  The location used for Mrs Pumphrey’s house is Broughton Hall near Skipton.

Main Street - geograph.org.uk - 2376729. Photo by Keith Evans, via Wikimedia Commons.

 Askrigg is in Wensleydale, a few miles to the west of the dale’s main town, Leyburn.  In addition to the locations used in the series, there is the beautiful St Oswald’s Church, which dates largely from the 15^th century.  The market town of Grassington is in Wharfedale, a few miles north of the A59, with the lovely River Wharfe at the western edge of the town.  Bigger and busier than Askrigg, there are a range of hotels, pubs, cafes and shops, as well as the Grassington Folk Museum and the National Park Centre.

Map of Askrigg.

Map of Grassington.

THE REAL BRIDESHEAD: MADRESFIELD COURT, WORCESTERSHIRE

I am currently reading Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited for the first time, and inevitably I found myself wondering whether there is a real-life property which served as the inspiration for the stately home occupied by the family of Sebastian Flyte, the close friend of the protagonist Charles Ryder.  My mind instantly drifts to Yorkshire and Castle Howard, which was famously used for the filming of a TV serialisation of the novel in 1981, and again in 2008 for a feature film.  However, on further digging I discover that the property which at least partly served as the inspiration for Brideshead was Madresfield Court near Malvern in Worcestershire, home of the Lygon family for nearly 900 years.  One of the family’s sons, Hugh Lygon, was a friend of Waugh, and it was he who was partly the inspiration for Sebastian.

Madresfield also played a role in two other works by Waugh.  The author wrote most of Black Mischief while at the property in 1932.  Then, in 1934, in A Handful of Dust, Madresfield was turned into Hetton Abbey.

Madresfield Court - geograph.org.uk - 816042. Photo by Angus McCulloch, via Wikimedia Commons.

The history of Madresfield Court dates back to the 12^th century, when the original house was built.  However, the current house is Victorian, with 160 rooms, and surrounded by a moat.  The gardens and house are open to visitors on pre-booked guided tours only (running from April until June in 2023).  The interior of the house is notable for its many works from the Arts and Crafts movement.  The gardens cover an area of 69 acres, having been enlarged in 1865.  The grounds include a pet cemetery where the animals who have lived at the house over the years are buried.  The gardens are enhanced by the sight of the nearby Malvern Hills, which form a dramatic backdrop.

Map of Madresfield Court and surrounding area.

Map of Castle Howard and surrounding area.

SUMMONING THE PAST IN SUFFOLK: THE DIG

 There are many interesting places to visit in Suffolk, as we discovered on a long weekend break a few years ago, but one place that particularly stands out in my memory is the site of the archaeological dig at Sutton Hoo and its museum full of replicas of Anglo-Saxon treasures.  The initial finds were made by amateur archaeologist Basil Brown on land owned by widow Edith Pretty.  Brown made the extraordinary discovery of a 7^th century ship burial, but a Cambridge archaeologist took over the excavation on realising its significance and Basil was left somewhat sidelined.  This is the subject of the Netflix film The Dig, starring Carey Mulligan as Edith Pretty and Ralph Fiennes as Basil Brown. 

Sutton Hoo ship-burial model. Photo by Steven J. Plunkett, via Wikimedia Commons.

The Suffolk coast, particularly the southern part of it, is characterised by a series of estuaries, and it is the River Deben that runs alongside the Sutton Hoo site.  In the opening scene of the film we see Basil taking his bike on a foot ferry across the River Deben – this was actually filmed on the Butley Foot Ferry on the Butley River near Orford.   Other coastal locations used in the filming include Thorpeness Beach, just up the coast from Aldeburgh, and Shingle Street, a hamlet midway between Orford and Felixstowe (which also featured heavily in Daughters-in-Law by Joanna Trollope, covered elsewhere in this blog). 

 

Butley Ferry - geograph.org.uk - 1303087. Photo by Keith Evans, via Wikimedia Commons.

Two wildlife reserves make an appearance: the Boyton Marsh RSPB site and Snape Marshes, run by the Suffolk Wildlife Trust.  Boyton Marsh is where we see the ruined house where Peggy Piggott (Lily James) has a fling with Edith Pretty’s cousin Rory Lomax (Johnny Flynn).  Snape Marshes is used for the scene in which Basil is seen smoking his pipe while sitting on the banks of the River Alde after making his first significant find, and a restored 19^th century sailing barge called the Cygnet is seen appearing before him. 

 

Boyton Marshes - geograph.org.uk - 1298304. Photo by Keith Evans, via Wikimedia Commons.

Pretty’s house, which in real life was part of the Sutton Hoo estate, and is now a museum, was actually in Surrey in the film, represented by a property called Norney Grange near Shackleford, which was used for both interior and exterior scenes.  The scenes of the actual dig were also shot near here.  As for the village scenes, the post office in Diss was played by the village shop in the village of Shackleford, and the hamlet of Hambleden in Buckinghamshire was used for the scenes of the inquest in Sutton.

 

The real-life Sutton Hoo site is run by the National Trust.  The objects on display are replicas; the real items are now housed in the British Museum.  Tranmer House , where Edith Pretty lived, houses a museum telling the story of the discoveries and her role in them.  Norney Grange is not open to the public, but a history of the property can be found on the Shackleford website.

The Butley ferry is currently closed, but is due to reopen on Easter weekend.

Map of Sutton Hoo.

A POOR MAN'S JANE AUSTEN RICH IN LOCATIONS: BRIDGERTON

 

When fans of the Regency period in general, and Jane Austen in particular, got wind of the imminent arrival of the Netflix series Bridgerton they were no doubt salivating at the anticipation of the prospect of flirtations between cleavage-bursting young women and dashing young men sporting sideburns and knee-high boots.  However, as the series got underway opinions were deeply divided between those who found the series embarrassingly lightweight (with plenty of dark mutterings about ‘wokeness’) and those who thought it was a wonderfully entertaining tonic for these dark covid times.  One thing that cannot be denied, though, is the splendour of the locations used in the series.

I have previously blogged about Bath and its Jane Austen connections, and this handsome, honey-coloured city in the west of England plays a large part in Bridgerton.  The Royal Crescent puts in an appearance with number 1 serving as the Baron Featherington household, with digital enhancements on the facade.  Filming also took place at the Assembly Rooms and Trim Street is where we see the exterior of Gunter’s Tea Shop.

Royal Crescent, Bath. Photo by MontanNito, via Wikimedia Commons.

The stately piles occupied by the various families involved in the story are played by photogenic properties scattered around the country.  An art museum in Greenwich called Ranger’s House was used for the Bridgerton family home, with the addition of wisteria and ivy to the facade to make it look more homely.  The property belonging to the dashing Duke of Hastings was represented by three different properties: Wilton House near Salisbury for interior and exterior shots, with further interior work done at Syon House in Middlesex and Badminton House, Gloucestershire, which we last encountered as Darlington Hall in The Remains Of The Day.  Badminton House and Wilton House were also used for some of the interior scenes depicting the home of Lady Danbury, who acts as a kind of mother figure to the Duke.  The exterior of Lady Danbury’s house, meanwhile, was shot at the Holburne Museum of Art, taking us back to Bath.

Wilton-House-02-2004-gje. Photo by Gerd Eichmann, via Wikimedia  Commons.

Soaring up to the heights of Regency society, we encounter Queen Charlotte, whose residence in the series is an actual palace in real life, namely Hampton Court Palace.  Wilton House pops up again here, with some of its interiors used in the filming, along with those of Lancaster House in London. 

For the marital home of a certain pair of newly-weds we are whisked to the north of England, to Castle Howard, 15 miles north of York, where the exterior scenes were filmed, while Wilton House and Badminton House are once again used for interiors, along with North Mymms Park, a wedding venue south of Hatfield, Hertfordshire.  Staying in Hatfield, Hatfield House, a property which has been used in numerous previous productions, provided some of the interior shots of the Featherington residence.

Castle Howard and garden. Photo by Pwojdacz (talk), via Wikimedia Commons.

The city of Bath nestles in a dip in the Somerset countryside with the River Avon running through it.  Jane Austen once lived there, and as a reminder of this time there is an annual Jane Austen Festival.  Visitors who are feeling a bit flush and who want to immerse themselves in the Bridgerton experience can stay at the Royal Crescent Hotel, the city’s finest, although the less moneyed can make do with a visit to No. 1, which is a heritage museum.  The Holburne Museum of Art is next to Sydney Gardens on the east side of the city.  The Assembly Rooms are run by the National Trust and are a short distance to the east of the Royal Crescent.  For visitors coming from outside the UK the nearest international airport is Bristol Airport. 

For Bridgerton fans visiting the London area, Ranger’s House, which lies on the boundary between Greenwich Park and Blackheath, is run by English Heritage and is home to the Wernher Collection.   Syon House to the west of London is across the Thames from Kew Gardens and is the London home of the Duke of Northumberland.  The house forms part of the wider Syon Park, which is open to visitors.  Hampton Court Palace is further upstream and is famous for having been the seat of Henry VIII.  Lancaster House is near St James’s Palace and is managed by the Foreign and Commonwealth Office. 

Further afield, North Mymms Park is just off the A1 (M) south of Hatfield and offers wedding and events services, while Hatfield House forms part of Hatfield Park, both of which are open to visitors, and is a short distance to the east of Hatfield.  Heading further west, Wilton House, just outside Salisbury, is home to the Earl and Countess of Pembroke, but is open to visitors.  Badminton House is part of Badminton Estate and has been the main seat of the Dukes of Beaufort since the 17^th century.  The Estate is open to visitors for house tours and garden visits.  Finally, to Yorkshire and Castle Howard, 15 miles north-east of York just off the A64 Scarborough road, which belongs to the Howard family, going back several generations.  The house and gardens are open to visitors. 

AN ELIZABETHAN SAGA IN CORNWALL: THE GROVE OF EAGLES/FALMOUTH

 

The late Winston Graham is best known for the Poldark books, not least given the latest dramatisation of the series on the TV.  However, I recently read another excellent work by him set earlier in time, during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I.  I have always been fascinated by this period in the country’s history, characterised by such a strong female monarch, the discovery of the New World and the triumph over the Spanish Armada.  My mother’s side of my family came from Mousehole, which bore the brunt of an invasion by the Spanish during this time, and I often wonder whether I have a trace of Spanish blood coursing through my veins from the raping and pillaging that went on there.

 

The invasion of Mousehole and West Cornwall is the subject of one of the most dramatic sections of The Grove of Eagles, but it is the estuary town of Falmouth which forms the main geographical focus of the story.  The main character, Maugan Killigrew, is the illegitimate son of John Killigrew who lives at Arwenack House in what is now Falmouth, and who was the Governor of Pendennis Castle.  He becomes involved in the war against the Spanish, spending time as a prisoner in Spain, followed by a spell as secretary to Sir Walter Raleigh once back on British soil.  Arwenack House can still be found in Falmouth today, just across the way from Discovery Quay, home to the National Maritime Museum. 

 

Arwenack Falmouth Cornwall. Photo by Steve Barnes, via Wikimedia Commons.

In those days Penryn, just up the Fal from the present-day Falmouth, was the main port in the area, and some of the early action of the story takes place here, with Maugan getting into trouble with the locals.  The Elizabethan manor house Trerice also features in the early part of the story, being the home of John Arundell, who also served as a Governor of Pendennis Castle.  

 

Pendennis Castle. Photo by Willhsmit, via Wikimedia Commons.

The most enduring feature of Maugan Killigrew’s story is his love for Sue Reskymer, who he loses touch with when he goes to Spain, and who marries and moves to West Penwith.  The pair are reunited when the far west of Cornwall is invaded by the Spanish and Maugan goes in search of her.  As mentioned before, this is one of the most dramatic episodes of the story, with the local men converging on Mousehole, Penzance and the surrounding areas in search of the invaders.

The Fal estuary

 

Trerice is a short distance inland from Newquay, and is nowadays run by the National Trust.  Pendennis Castle, which occupies a commanding position overlooking the mouth of the Fal estuary, is run by English Heritage.

Map of Falmouth.

WHEN IS CORNWALL NOT CORNWALL? REBECCA 2020

 

I read Daphne Du Maurier’s Rebecca for the first time this year during lockdown.  I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I found it to be one of the most amazing stories ever written.  Inevitably, such a famous novel found its way to the big and small screen, most famously in 1940 with Laurence Olivier playing the tragic Mr de Winter and Joan Fontaine playing his socially awkward second wife, struggling to step into the footsteps of the first Mrs de Winter, the Rebecca of the title. Shortly after I read the novel I learned that a new version was to be released, with Armie Hammer playing opposite Lily James, and with Kristin Scott Thomas as the forbidding head housekeeper Danvers.

 

I rushed to watch this new version, in anticipation of seeing some familiar scenes from my native Cornwall,  However, it turns out that just about anywhere other than Cornwall was used for the locations (at least the film used UK locations, unlike the 1940 version, which was largely filmed in California). 

 

As in the original, the film kicks off in the South of France, but the hotel suite occupied by the dreadful Mrs Van Hopper and the “new Mrs de Winter-to-be” is not in France at all, but was filmed at Waddesdon Manor in Buckinghamshire, which has a suitably chateau-like appearance.  The Manor was built by Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild in 1877 as a summer bolt-hole for entertaining.

                                  Waddesdonterrace. Photo by Giano, via Wikimedia Commons.

The first glimpse of Manderley as the newly weds drive up to the property was filmed at Cranborne Manor, midway between Wimborne Minster and Salisbury.  The great entrance hall where the couple are greeted by the servants was filmed at Hatfield House, Hertfordshire, which was also used for a pivotal point in the story when Mrs de Winter mark 2 is tricked into choosing an ill-advised costume for the summer ball she and Max are hosting at Manderley.  The painting which provides the inspiration for the outfit is in real life a portrait of Mrs Hugh Hammersley, which is to be found in Hatfield House.  The Persian rugs and wood panelled walls seen in the interior scenes were also from Hatfield.    

 

Cranborne Manor - geograph.org.uk - 1223951.  Photo by Mike Searle, via Wikimedia Commons.

As Mrs de Winter is seen exploring Manderley, there are many works of art in view.  Some of these are from the interior of Petworth House, West Sussex, which was used for some of the scenes.  Meanwhile, for Rebecca’s wing of Manderley, which has been kept as a shrine to her by Danvers, we are transported to Dorset, to Mapperton House, which is also where the accident with the precious porcelain was filmed.  The East Wing bedrooms, however, are from Loseley House near Guildford.

In the ‘downstairs’ part of Manderley, where the servants hang out, we see the basement kitchen and the corridors leading to and from it.  The kitchen area of Osterley House in the London Borough of Hounslow was used for these scenes, with some crockery and food items added in to complete the scene.  Osterley House also provided the stables for the scene in which Mrs de Winter was persuaded to try her hand at horse riding by Rebecca’s cousin, Jack Favell (Sam Riley). 

 

                                 Osterley Park 800. Photo by Sannse, via Wikimedia Commons.

For me, the biggest disappointment of the filming locations, given the gorgeousness of the Cornish coast, is that the coastal scenes were filmed outside the county, specifically at Hartland Quay, North Devon, recognisable from its unusual rock formations.

 

                Hartland Quay - panoramio (3). Photo by Matt Prosser, via Wikimedia Commons.

Waddesdon Manor is about five miles north-west of Aylesbury and is open to visitors, with advance booking only during the coronavirus pandemic.  The beautiful grounds include an aviary housing a range of exotic birds.  The house is a repository for an extensive collection of art, in particular 18^th century French pieces, this being a favourite period of the Rothschilds. 

Cranborne Manor, just outside the village of Cranborne, is notable for its gardens, originally from a design by John Tradescant in the 17^th century and rediscovered in the 19^th century, then replanted in the Arts and Crafts style a century later.  Visitors to the gardens also have access to a cafe and a shop.  Hatfield House, dating from 1611 and owned by the Cecil family for 400 years, has been used extensively in filming.  The house and gardens are open to visitors except for the winter season, when only the park and woodland walks, the cafe and shops are open. 

Petworth House is on the edge of the small town of Petworth, West Sussex.  This vast 17^th century house and its grounds are run by the National Trust.  Works of art on display in the state rooms include paintings by Van Dyck, Turner, Reynolds and Gainsborough.  Mapperton House is near Beaminster in Dorset and is the home of the Earl and Countess of Sandwich.  Both the house and gardens are open to visitors.  Loseley Park lies just beyond the southern edge of Guildford, Surrey.  The gardens are open to visitors in the summer, and the property is also available for weddings.  In normal, non-covid, times the house can be visited on guided tours.

Osterley Park and House, run by the National Trust, lies between the M4 and the Great West Road just a few miles east of Heathrow Airport.  The house is in the neo-classical style, designed by Robert Adam and is surrounded by landscaped parklands and gardens.  Hartland Quay is at the western extreme of the North Devon coast, known for its rough seas during the winter months, which have been responsible for many shipwrecks over the years.  The distinctive layered rocks seen in the film are sedimentary rocks deposited during the Carboniferous period.

ISLES OF INTRIGUE: VERA/THE FARNES

 

As I mentioned in a previous piece, the crime series Vera takes us on a tour of a variety of locations in the north-east of England.  In episode 1 of season 7 (Natural Selection) the action centres around Ternstone Island, a magnet for birdwatchers, with some of the rangers quizzed as potential suspects in the murder of one of their own.  The real-life location used for Ternstone Island was one of the Farne Islands, a bird sanctuary owned by the National Trust and accessible via boat trips from Seahouses on the Northumberland coast. 

 

                                  Farne Islands. Photo by MiloDenn, via Wikimedia Commons.

The tiny harbour seen in this episode of Vera, however, is actually that of Craster, and the ruins of nearby Dunstanburgh Castle are glimpsed in a couple of the scenes.  In real life, there are no trips to the islands from Craster, and although an island is visible on the horizon in the filming, the footage must have been doctored, because there is no such island visible from Craster.  Meanwhile, some of the Farne Islands scenes, including those depicting the Visitor Centre, were filmed further south at Souter Lighthouse in Tyne and Wear. 

 

                             Craster (9815022296). Photo by Dave_S, via Wikimedia Commons.

There are numerous boat trips out to the Farnes from Seahouses, with different variations available, including a Sunset Cruise and an All Day Bird Watch Trip. Some trips run from April to October, while others have a more restricted timetable.  I personally found the month of June the best time to visit, not only for the puffins frequenting the island and flitting around offshore, but also for the thrill of dodging the arctic terns nesting on the island.  Remember your hats for protection when they swoop down on you from above!

 

Craster, a few miles down the coast from Seahouses, is a small harbourside village with a cosy pub, a fishmonger specialising in smoked fish and a wonderful coastal path leading up to the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle.  Souter Lighthouse is run by the National Trust and is a short distance to the south of South Shields.  It is a classic red and white lighthouse, opened in 1871 and designed for the use of alternating electric current, a world first.  The other claim to fame of this lighthouse is that it is haunted, allegedly by the ghost of Grace Darling’s niece Isobella.

Map of Northumberland.