THE REAL HOME OF MIDSOMER MURDERS: THAMES AND CHILTERNS

The area to the east of Oxford, especially the River Thames and the Chilterns, is characterised by quaint towns and villages with genteel red brick buildings, village greens, pretty pubs, cricket and horseriding. In short, not the sort of place one would expect to be a hotbed of murder and mayhem. However, in the TV world this is the county of Midsomer, home of the Midsomer Murders series, and there have been enough murders over the years for the series to clock up a staggering 20 seasons since its launch in 1997. The poor soul charged with solving all these murders is Detective Chief Inspector Tom Barnaby, formerly played by John Nettles, who has more recently been replaced by Neil Dudgeon.

The fictional village at the heart of all this bloodshed is Causton. As is often the case, more than one real life location has been used for the filming of the Causton scenes. The three main locations are Wallingford, Thame and Henley-on-Thames, all of them market towns in South Oxfordshire.

In the Thameside town of Wallingford, the market square features in the series and the Corn Exchange plays the role of Causton Theatre. Inspector Barnaby is often seen driving across the bridge which spans the River Thames. The Midsomer Worthy Choir of the series has singers from the local choir in Wallingford. Visitors to the town who are fans of the series should head to the museum, which has displays about the filming in the town, along with scripts and some of the props.

Wallingford Town Hall. Photo by Tom Bastin, via Wikimedia Commons.

The town of Thame (named after the River Thame rather than the more famous Thames) has provided a number of locations for the series, for example the former tourist office, which is depicted as Causton’s library, the Town Hall as Causton Town Hall in Shot At Dawn (season 11) and others, the Market House, Rumsey’s Chocolaterie as Madrigal's Camera Shop in Picture of Innocence (season 10) and three of its inns, The Swan, The Black Horse and The Spread Eagle. Thame Museum was used in Secrets and Spies (season 12).  Last year the town started offering walking tours of the locations used in the series.

Upper High Street, Thame, with the Swan Hotel-geograph-4126457-by-Stefan-Czapski. Via Wikimedia Commons.

 

In Henley-on-Thames, the Town Hall serves as Causton’s court house in Last Year’s Model (season 9) and The Argyll pub features in the same episode. The butcher’s shop Gabriel Machin is seen in The Magician’s Nephew (season 11), playing Anton Thorneycrofts butcher’s. Henley is best known for its annual Royal Regatta, and this fact is put to good use in Dead in the Water (season 8), which features the Midsomer Regatta. One of the town’s restaurants, CAU (formerly La Bodega at the time of filming), is seen in Down Among the Dead Men (season 9), with Inspector Barnaby buying drinks in the garden of the establishment, renamed Cafe Vinters. No Oxfordshire market town would be complete without a ramshackle antiques shop, and in Henley it is Tudor House Antiques which was chosen as a location in A Sacred Trust (season 14).

Hart Street, Henley-on-Thames - geograph.org.uk - 526487. Photo by Colin Smith, via Wikimedia Commons

This part of the country is full of pretty villages which were used in the series, too many to mention in full. Moulsford, near Wallingford, features in Dead in the Water. Warborough, set back a bit from the river, is the home of the The Six Bells, where Barnaby and his sidekick Sergeant Troy are sometimes seen having a pint while discussing the latest case. The exterior of the pub has been renamed several times for different episodes, as The Quill Inn, The Black Swan and The Luck in the World. Further afield, just outside Maindenhead, the village of Holyport is the focal point of Harvest of Souls (season 18), its picturesque pub The George on the Green on the village green being renamed The Black Dog for the filming.

The Six Bells, Warborough - geograph.org.uk - 1392017. Photo by Jonathan Billinger, via Wikimedia Commons

MAN ALIVE!: WAKING NED

Cregneash, on the British Crown Dependency Isle of Man, is well known in tourist circles as the home of the National Folk Museum, an outdoor museum showcasing the Manx way of life in past times.  For the makers of the 1998 comedy film Waking Ned, also known as Waking Ned Devine, the compact and traditional nature of the village provided the perfect backdrop for this amusing tale about the fictional Irish village of Tullymore, where two friends from the village embark on a quest to find out the identity of a lottery winner believed to be living among them, but who turns out to have died with winning ticket in hand, prompting the friends to devise a plot to impersonate the winner.  The nature of the film has been compared to Bill Forsyth’s Local Hero, with similarly stunning scenery.

Cregneash HarryKelly'sCottage. Photo by Andy Stephenson, via Wikimedia Commons

The scene in which a chicken dinner is organised with the aim of finding out who the winner is was filmed in the Old Mill, in Glen Road, Laxey. The main attraction for visitors to Laxey is the enormous water wheel called the Lady Isabella, and from here there is a walk down to the sea front, which takes in the mill buildings where the scene was filmed.

Laxey

The thatched one-storey cottage where the Ned of the title is discovered dead in bed was filmed not in Cregneash, but in a location near Niarbyl, Dalby, on the west coast between Peel and Port Erin. The scene in the phone kiosk done up in green to look Irish, where the two friends phone the lottery organisers to make their claim, was filmed on Marine Drive, a scenic road to the south-west of Douglas, leading to Douglas Head.  Visitors using the road are taken through a distinctive castellated ‘gateway’, which used to be a toll gate.  The beach at Niarbyl, below Cregganmooar, is where the two pensioners go for a skinny dip prior to the arrival of the man from the lottery, who swoops in by helicopter, with some attendant fine views of the coast.

Cottages Niarbyl - geograph.org.uk - 777580. Photo by Chris Gunns, via Wikimedia Commons

James Nesbitt has the unenviable role of a pig farmer known as Pig Finn, whose lingering pig smells make it difficult to woo the ladies.  The real life location of Finn’s farm is at Raby Mooar, just north of Glen Maye, and Lizzie’s house is also there.  Glen Maye is typical of the beautiful leafy glens found in various parts of the island, with a waterfall and paths leading down to the beach.  Another glen seen in the film is Glen Mona, one of various locations featured in the nude motor-cycle ride.

The Isle of Man can be reached by ferry from the mainland, and also from Belfast, and it has an airport linking it to various destinations in the UK and to Dublin.

Map of the island