Showing posts with label Pembrokeshire. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pembrokeshire. Show all posts

Tuesday, 5 March 2019

BIRTHPLACE OF AN EARLY TRAVEL WRITER: MANORBIER, PEMBROKESHIRE


The small Pembrokeshire village of Manorbier with its ruined castle was the birthplace of Gerald of Wales, a prolific writer and author of what must have been some of the earliest known travelogues.  Gerald, whose father was the Anglo-Norman knight William of Barri, was born in 1146 in Manorbier Castle.  He travelled extensively in Ireland and Britain and his first book, about his Irish travels, was written during an expedition accompanying Prince John in 1184, but it was a later tour during which he accompanied the Archbishop of Canterbury, Baldwin of Exeter, to gather recruits for the Third Crusade, which gave rise to his best known works, the Itinerarium Cambriae (1191) and Descriptio Cambriae (1194) – he always wrote in Latin. 



The Welsh expedition gave Gerald the chance to wax lyrical about his place of birth, in his day known as Maenor Pyrr (“the mansion of Pyrrus”).  He describes the castle as “excellently well defended by turrets and bulwarks”, and as having a fish-pond “as conspicuous for its grand appearance as for the depth of its waters”.  This was complemented by an orchard “inclosed on one part by a vineyard, and on the other by a wood”.  The adjacent valley had “a rivulet of never-failing water”.  The body of water offshore, which today is regarded as the mouth of the Bristol Channel, is referred to by Gerald as the Severn Sea, where the passing ships can be seen to “daringly brave the inconstant waves and raging sea” on their way towards Ireland.  The area in those days benefitted from supplies of corn, sea-fish and imported wines.  Gerald declares his home village “the pleasantest spot in Wales” and begs the reader’s pardon for “having thus extolled his native soil, his genial territory, with a profusion of praise and admiration”.  


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Manorbier Castle. Photo by Paul Allison, via Wikimedia Commons

Manorbier is just a few miles around the coast from the popular resort of Tenby, and there is a car park by the side of the stream for visitors arriving by car.  The village is also just off the Pembrokeshire Coast Path for those coming on foot.  The castle and its garden are open to visitors for a fee, and for anyone wanting the full Gerald experience it is possible to stay overnight in self-catering accommodation.  Another prominent building in the village is St James Church, dating from the 12th century.  There is a sandy beach backed by dunes at the foot of the valley.  

Map of the village.

Monday, 24 July 2017

SUMMER SPECIAL: BEACHES ON THE BIG AND SMALL SCREEN



Summer’s here and it’s time to head for the beach, but in between leaping into the waves and sunning yourself, why not stop to consider all the wonderful film and TV scenes produced over the years featuring the nation’s stunning beaches.  Here is a baker’s dozen of British beaches which have featured on the big and small screen.

Holywell Beach, Cornwall

In the third series of Poldark Geoffrey Charles, stepson of George Warleggan, is seen visiting a beautiful beach and declaring it the best beach in Cornwall.  In another episode the same beach forms the backdrop for the romantic reunion of Geoffrey Charles’ governess Morwenna and Demelza’s brother Drake.  The beach in question is the one at Holywell Bay, easily recognisable from the two pointy islets just offshore known as Gull Rocks.  This is not the first time the beach has been seen on screen: it appears on the big screen in Summer In February, the 2013 film about an Edwardian artists’ colony in Cornwall, in which Gilbert Evans and Alfred Munnings are seen riding together on horseback and discussing the love interest, the fragrant Florence Carter-Wood.  The bay’s name derives from St Cubert’s Holy Well, which is to be found in Holywell Cave, accessible at low tide.  The cave features in one of the above-mentioned Poldark episodes, when Drake leads Geoffrey Charles and Morwenna to it.

On a much grimmer note, in 2002 the beach was transformed into a North Korean battlefield for the opening scenes of the  James Bond film Die Another Day, although apart from a brief glimpse of Gull Rocks you would never recognise it.  The lifeguard hut was turned into a pill box and barbed wire was arranged all over in order to achieve the desired effect.

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Dunes at Holywell Bay (6124). Photo by Nilfanion, via Wikimedia Commons

West Bay, Dorset

The distinctive orange-hued cliffs backing the beach at West Bay will be forever remembered by Broadchurch fans as the place where the Latimers’ son Danny was found dead on the beach, a tragic event which formed the central focus of the first series and continued to weave its way through the two subsequent series.  The beach is repeatedly seen thereafter, often with dramatic waves crashing onto the shore.  The rocks forming the cliffs date from the Early Jurassic age and consist of Bridport Sand Formation and Inferior Oolite.  There are also frequent glimpses of the harbour adjacent to the beach in the series.

Brighton, East Sussex

Brighton Beach has featured in many productions over the years.  Among the most memorable scenes is the one in Quadrophenia in which the central character Jimmy is sitting on the shingle after an eventful night out gazing pensively out to sea, accompanied by the strains of  The Who’s ‘Love, Reign O’er Me’.  Then there is the scene from Mona Lisa, in which Bob Hoskins and Cathy Tyson are seen larking about in comedy sunglasses on the Palace Pier.  The beach and seafront also appeared in The Boat That Rocked about a 1960s pirate radio station, and of course both the 1947 and 2010 version of  Brighton Rock, based on the Graham Greene novel of the same name, featured the seafront, in particular the pier.  This is just a small selection of appearances by the film makers’ favourite resort.

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20070813 brighton10. Photo by Jean Housen, via Wikimedia Commons.

Camber  Sands, East Sussex

Camber Sands near Rye is a riot of dunes, a rarity in the south-east.  The makers of the Carry On film Follow That Camel evidently thought the beach resembled the Sahara Desert, only without the attendant heat and lack of infrastructure.  The sands were also seen in a beach scene in The Theory of Everything, about the life of Stephen Hawking.  But most of the appearances by the sands have been in war films.  The 1958 version of Dunkirk used the beach as the backdrop for a recreation of Operation Dynamo, and in the 1962 film The Longest Day it was used to depict the Normandy beaches, a role repeated in the more recent film The Monuments Men, starring George Clooney and Matt Damon, about an attempt to save art treasures from the Nazis. 

Holkham Beach, Norfolk

This sweeping mass of sand manages to upstage Gwyneth Paltrow in the final scene in Shakespeare in Love.  The actress is seen striding along the beach, meant to be Shakespeare’s Illyria, in a flowing gown while Joseph Fiennes as Shakespeare sings her praises in a voiceover.  More recently, the beach became “Area X” in a sci-fi film called Annihilation starring Natalie Portman.  Visitors to the beach will no doubt want to look in on the nearby Palladian masterpiece Holkham Hall, which has also been used a fair bit in filming.

Redcar, North Yorkshire

Like Camber Sands, Redcar’s beach has been used to depict the beach at Dunkirk, this time in the film version of Ian McEwan’s novel Atonement, starring Keira Knightley and James McAvoy.  The harrowing wartime scenes filmed at Redcar included local people who were brought in as extras to play the soldiers.  One of the excited inhabitants of the town commented that they wished they could put a price on what the film was worth to the town, quite justifiably, since visitor numbers jumped by some 70% during the filming.

Bamburgh, Northumberland

As well as being a stunning beach, Bamburgh has the added attraction of being overlooked by one of the country’s most impressive castles.  This has inevitably made it irresistible to film makers.  The castle and beach were used for the filming of the 1971 version of Macbeth, directed by Roman Polanski, and during the production of the 2015 version the cast and 200 extras were seen at the castle.  The castle also made an appearance in the 1998 film Elizabeth.  On the small screen, the castle served to depict Belleme Castle in Robin of Sherwood.  Another appearance on the small screen was in an episode of Most Haunted, a ghost hunting series best known for Yvette Fielding screaming her head off  and Derek Acorah speaking in tongues.  The ghosts in the castle reportedly include a stunningly beautiful “pink lady”.

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Bamburgh MMB 39 Bamburgh Castle. Photo by mattbuck, via Wikimedia Commons.

St Andrews, Fife

The opening scene of the film Chariots of Fire, which tells the story of two athletes who, after years of training, are accepted to compete in the 1924 Paris Olympics, features a race along a beautiful sandy beach with the athletes dressed in their white period racing gear, their feet splashing in the shallows, with the stirring theme tune by Vangelis ringing out.   Towards the end of the scene the skyline of the university and cathedral city of St Andrews comes into the camera shot, revealing that the scene of the race is the city’s West Sands beach, backed by St Andrews Links, this being “the home of golf”.  The beach where the athletes trained was meant to be at Broadstairs, but the film makers chose St Andrews for the running scenes.

Camusdarach Beach, Arisaig, Highland

In the heartwarming film Local Hero, which tells the story of a rich American oil company’s efforts to buy a small Scottish coastal village for oil prospecting purposes, much of the action takes place on the east coast, in the village of Pennan.  However, one of the most beautiful locations used in the film was actually on the other side of Scotland at Camusdarach Beach, between Morar and Arisaig.  The beach is the setting of the amusing scene in which the local populace gather in the little church overlooking the beach to hold a meeting about the oil company's bid to exploit the area, while the oil men stand on the beach, oblivious to the line of people filing into the church.

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Looking North up Camusdarach Beach - geograph.org.uk - 68305. Photo by David Crocker, via Wikimedia Commons.


Blackpool, Lancashire

Blackpool has made repeated appearances in the long-running soap opera Coronation Street.  From the early days in 1961, when Ena, Minnie and Martha took a trip up the Blackpool Tower, to 1985 when Bet Lynch declared that "Everybody's letting their hair down. You can cut smell of shrimps and best bitter with a knife."  Fast forward to 1989 when one of Coronation Street's worst villains, Alan Bradley, met his end at the hands of a Blackpool tram while stalking Rita Fairclough, who had moved to the town to escape from him.  Then there was the recent heart-rending scene involving Roy and Hayley Cropper who went to Blackpool to try to blot out Hayley's terminal cancer.  On the big screen, the resort is the focal point of the British comedy film Bhaji On The Beach about a group of women from the Indian subcontinent enjoying a day trip to see the famous Blackpool Illuminations. 

Freshwater West, Pembrokeshire

The year 2009 was a big one for filming on the spectacular beach at Freshwater West.  In May of that year the beach was taken over by the Harry Potter team, when filming took place for Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.  The most striking prop was Dobby's Shell Cottage, which is seen in the film with the dunes as a backdrop.  Then, the following month the production crew of Ridley Scott's Robin Hood arrived and put on a dazzling display for any casual onlookers as they filmed the scene depicting a battle against French invaders with Robin Hood (Russell Crowe) leading his men into the fray.  The scene was so massive that it involved 800 actors and 130 horses as well as dozens of the boats that were built for the filming.   

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Freshwater West - geograph.org.uk - 239022. Photo by Jeremy Owen, via Wikimedia Commons.


Southerndown, Vale of Glamorgan

Many Doctor Who fans will have been touched by the relationship between the David Tennant version of the Doctor and his sidekick Rose Tyler (Billie Piper).  So the tearjerking scene in which the Doctor is about to declare his feelings for Rose when he suddenly dematerialises must have had them reaching for the tissues.  The scene of all this heartache was the beach at Southerndown in South Wales, meant to be Bad Wolf Bay in Norway in the series.  The production team evidently thought highly of the beach in question as a filming location: it was used in several other episodes including Journey's End, which saw Rose being joined by her successor Donna (Catherine Tate). 

Portstewart Strand, County Londonderry

One of the most magnificent beaches in Northern Ireland, and just one of a host of scenic coastal locations seen in Game of Thrones, which has just begun its seventh series, Portstewart Strand was where Jaime Lannister and Bronn were seen duelling with the Dornish guards in series 5.  The filming took place in August 2014, which was unfortunate, this being one of Northern Ireland’s most popular summer holiday spots, because the beach was completely closed for the filming.  The locals didn’t mind, though, considering the closure a small price to pay for the exposure given to Portstewart by its role in Game of Thrones.

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A westerly view along The Strand, Portstewart - geograph.org.uk - 1312074. Photo by Des Colhoun, via Wikimedia Commons.

Wednesday, 18 September 2013

MEDIEVAL MAYHEM AT FRESHWATER WEST: ROBIN HOOD



On a fine June day in 2009 the peace and tranquillity of an idyllic beach in south-west Wales was shattered by the sound of charging, whinnying horses, the clashing of swords and yells and shouts from a fleet of longboats out at sea.  The cause of this spectacle, which must have provided a frisson of excitement for both visitors and locals who were allowed to watch from a distance, was the filming of a scene from Ridley Scott's 2010 version of the story of hero of English folklore Robin Hood, starring Russell Crowe and Cate Blanchett.  The scene depicts a battle against French invaders with Robin leading his men into the fray and slaughtering his arch enemy, Sir Godfrey (Mark Strong), who has pledged his allegiance to the French side.  Considering the scene formed only a small part of the film as a whole, there were a staggering number of people and animals involved in making it: 800 actors and 130 horses, not to mention the dozens of boats and the helicopters flying overhead for the shots from the air.  There were also ambulances on hand in the quite likely event that someone might get hurt.  This was the second time that year that Freshwater West had caught the attention of Hollywood: the previous month the beach was used as the backdrop for Dobby's Shell Cottage in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.  

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Freshwater West - geograph.org.uk - 239022.  Photo by Jeremy Owen, via Wikimedia Commons.


The beach at Freshwater West is just one of many in Pembrokeshire, a county in south-west Wales which has more than its fair share of stunning beaches and coastal scenery.  It feels miles from anywhere, although the town of Pembroke is only about five miles to the east.  Walkers can reach the beach via the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, which passes through here.  The mile-long beach is a diverting mix of sand dunes and rock pools, making it a fun place for families, although swimming is unsuitable for all but the most experienced swimmers and in particular surfers, who flock here to brave the strong waves.  The beach is the venue for regular surfing tournaments, attracting contestants from all over the world.  Further round the coast is the National Trust run area known as Stackpole, with yet more lovely beaches, clifftop walks and a delightful complex of small lakes known as Bosherston Lakes, created 200 years ago for the now demolished mansion of Stackpole Court.  There are walkways around the lakes leading from the car park down to the beach, and the whole area is a haven for birds, dragonflies and even otters.

Bosherston Lakes

Tourist information about Pembrokeshire.