OH MR DARCY! LYME PARK, CHESHIRE

I have always found Sunday evening to be one of the most depressing parts of the week, what with the start of the new working week being just around the corner.  TV therefore has an important role to play by providing viewers with something to cheer themselves up.  Many women like nothing more than to settle down to a good costume drama, and on the evening of Sunday 24 September 1995 female viewers were in for a treat when the BBC's adaptation of Jane Austen's Pride And Prejudice burst onto our screens.  As well as being a jolly enjoyable drama, there was the added bonus of the dashing Colin Firth as Mr Darcy, his brooding good looks providing a much-needed Sunday evening tonic for the nation's women.  However, nothing could prepare them for the delights in store in episode four and the famous "lake scene".

Let us just relive the scene for a moment.  It is a swelteringly hot summer's day.  Mr Darcy strides towards the lakeside, removing his jacket, and sits down, contemplating a lovely cooling swim.  Off comes the scarf and off comes the waistcoat.  All over the country, female hands are fumbling distractedly in chocolate boxes, knocking over cups of tea, their owners unable to take their eyes off the screen.  However, that is all the stripping they are going to get.  Mr Darcy dives in, and we catch a glimpse of him moving through the murky water.  After his swim he is seen in his wet shirt, made slightly see-through by the sun.  Mr Darcy, still in a state of semi-undress and dripping wet, runs into Miss Bennett, who is not expecting him to be there, and a toe-curlingly awkward conversation ensues.

Earlier this year, this scene was voted the most memorable moment in TV drama, beating some of the most dramatic scenes from our beloved soap operas, such as the scene where Dirty Den hands the divorce papers to Angie in EastEnders, the tram crash in Coronation Street and the lesbian kiss in Brookside, among others.  The scene also made it into popular fiction when Bridget Jones and her friends settled down to watch the DVD with the obligatory bottle of wine (in fact the whole premise of the Bridget Jones story is as a modern-day equivalent of Austen's tale).  Apparently, Firth nearly turned the part of Mr Darcy down when originally offered it, believing himself to be a bit old for a romantic lead.  As for the actual dive, a body double was used due to concerns over the risks of Weil's disease from the lake waters.  However, Firth was used for the underwater part, which was filmed in a tank at Ealing Studios.

Apart from the undoubted charms of Colin Firth as Mr Darcy and Jennifer Ehle as Miss Bennett, the other star of the scene in question is Lyme Park where it was filmed and which doubled as Darcy's estate Pemberley in the series.  This estate near Disley in Cheshire, on the north-west edge of the Peak District, dates from the 14th century when it was granted to Sir Thomas Danyers.  It then passed to the Legh family, and remained with them until it was transferred to the National Trust in 1946.  The centrepiece of the estate is a large stately pile, the largest house in Cheshire, with a mixture of architectural styles from Elizabethan to Italianate.  Highlights include the Wardrobe Department where visitors can dress up in period costume, a cinefilm made by the last generation of the Legh family to occupy the house, a 15th century prayer book and numerous glimpses into the life of a well-to-do Edwardian household.  As well as the famous lake, the grounds include a deer park, an Edwardian rose garden, Cage Hill with its eponymous tower, a former hunting lodge, and walking trails that take in scenes from Pride and Prejudice.  Visitors to the property will have the chance to relive the lake scene when a statue of the semi-clad, sodden Mr Darcy is installed at Lyme Park following a tour around the country.  The statue, which was created to celebrate the launch of the new Drama TV channel, will remain at the estate until February 2014.

Lyme Hall 01. Photo by Alan Fleming, via Wikimedia Commons

Map of the area.

UNMISTAKABLY DORCHESTER: THE MAYOR OF CASTERBRIDGE

There can be few towns in literature as readily identifiable with their real life counterparts as Casterbridge, Thomas Hardy's fictional version of Dorchester.  The town is the focal point of The Mayor Of Casterbridge, the story of a man, Michael Henchard, who drunkenly sells his wife in his youth.  This act comes back to haunt him later in life, by which time he has become the Mayor Of Casterbridge. The story makes numerous references to local landmarks and buildings which can be pinned down to their real-life equivalents.  One of Dorchester's best known features is The Walks, a series of pleasant, tree-lined avenues which follow the line of the original Roman walls.  In Hardy's time, these avenues more or less formed the boundary between the town and the countryside, and there are several references to the way in which the agricultural areas around the town almost encroached on its streets.  Hardy describes the town as "like a chessboard on a green table-cloth", and he talks of how, when an execution took place, the cows had to be moved out of the way from the meadow next to the "drop" to make way for the spectators.  And how the judge, when passing sentence, did so "to the tune of Baa", from the sheep nearby.  Meanwhile, the High Street was colonised by pig-dealers occupying the recesses outside people's houses, and by the sellers of horses who "occasionally nipped little boys by the shoulder who were passing to school".  Needless to say, the present-day Dorchester has spread far beyond the confines of The Walks.

Halfway up Dorchester's High Street is the Kings Arms Hotel (now closed), an inn built in 1720 which has played host to Queen Victoria and King George VI.  The hotel, with the same name, features prominently in The Mayor Of Casterbridge (and also appeared in Far From The Madding Crowd).  Many of the important events of the novel take place in the Kings Arms.  In chapter 5 the Mayor of the title presides over "a great public dinner of the gentlepeople and such like leading volk", with the town band playing outside and lesser townsfolk peering in through the windows at the proceedings therein.  This is the point at which the sold wife first sees her husband after a long separation.  Another prominent pub which features in the story is The Three Mariners - this was based on an inn called The King Of Prussia, which was pulled down at the end of the 19th century.  

The house reputed to have been lived in by Michael Henchard. Photo by Brian Turland

The Kings Arms. Photo by Brian Turland

As well as the town itself, several nearby landmarks play an important part in the story.  As its name suggests, Dorchester had Roman origins, and there are many relics of that time around the town.  Maumbury Rings was the site of a Roman amphitheatre in the 1st century AD.  The site, which is referred to as the Ring in the novel, is where Henchard has a rendezvous with his former wife, and later with the other woman in his life, Lucetta.  There is a road referred to in the story as the Via, so called because it was once a Roman road.  This Via is overlooked by Maiden Castle - or Mai Dun - the largest prehistoric earthwork in the country, which is used as a vantage point by Henchard to observe comings and goings along the Via.  Some of the more rural scenes in the novel are set in "an eastern purlieu" called Durnover.  This is a fictional village on the edge of town, of which the real-life equivalent is Fordington, a former village which now forms part of the built-up area of Dorchester.  Further afield, the seaside town named Budmouth in the novel is Hardy's version of Weymouth, which also appears elsewhere in his work.

Maumbury Ring. Photo by Brian Turland

Fordington, aka Durnover. Photo by Brian Turland

Hardy was well qualified to base a novel around Dorchester: he was born in Higher Bockhampton near the town in 1840, and in 1849 began attending a school in Dorchester.  At 16 he went to work for the architect John Hicks, at 39 South Street.  Later in life, after spending time in London and a variety of locations he returned to live in Dorchester, moving into Max Gate in 1885.  This Victorian house designed by Hardy himself is now run by the National Trust, who also run his Higher Bockhampton birthplace.  Near Dorchester, commanding an elevated position with views out to the coast and inland, is the Hardy Monument, also National Trust.

Thomas Hardy's Birthplace (8061936623). Photo by Peter Broster, via Wikimedia Commons

Thomas Hardy's statue. Photo by Brian Turland

For tourist information about Dorchester follow this link.

Map of the town.