CRISIS IN CORNWALL: PLAYING NICE

Apparently, James Norton did not want to leave Cornwall when the filming of the ITV series Playing Nice came to an end.  Hardly surprising, given the lovely filming locations the lucky so-and-so and his co-stars had the pleasure of filming in.  A stark contrast to the harrowing subject matter of the series, which starts with two couples leaving hospital with each others’ babies after a mix-up and continues with the subsequent war between the two couples involved..  The book the series is based on was set in London, but Cornwall was chosen for the filming for its dramatic backdrops.

The most stunning scenery seen in the series is that of Cornwall’s majestic north coast, with its soaring cliffs and foaming seas.  The house where Miles, the nemesis of Pete (James Norton), and his wife live is the sort of modern multi-million pound mansion which enrages the locals, who feel such properties do not fit in with their surroundings.  The real house is Sand Dunes in Mawgan Porth, a honeypot for celebrities such as Cate Blanchett who have homes there.  Reportedly worth £4 million, the new owners plan to rent it out for a cool £5,000-plus a week. Further along the north coast, Park Head near Porthcothan Beach is where the dramatic scenes of the last episode were filmed. The restaurant where Pete's wife Maddie works is Zacry's in real life and is on Watergate Bay near Newquay.

Porthcothan Beach - geograph.org.uk - 314452. Photo by Tony Atkin, via Wikimedia Commons.

In the second episode the couples are seen using an outdoor swimming pool.  The scenes were shot at the Jubilee Pool in Penzance, a fine example of a 1930s art deco lido.  It is Grade II listed and widely recognised as one of the best surviving examples of such pools.  I grew up in Penzance and during the summer holidays I practically lived in the Pool as I called it.  The opening day of the season was the highlight of my year, and I would head down there eagerly to get my season ticket.  I can’t remember how much it cost, but it must have been affordable because we were not a particularly well-off family.  Nowadays it would be a very different proposition, as the pool is now geothermal and entry includes a sauna, with prices to match, although there is a discount for locals.

Jubilee Pool, Penzance - geograph.org.uk - 5790808. Photo by Chris Allen, via Wikimedia Commons.

The second episode also offers a glimpse of another iconic building: the Tate St Ives.  This is where Miles and his wife hold a charity event.  The Tate commands a wonderful position overlooking Porthmeor Beach, and anyone visiting must be sure not to miss the cafe on the top floor, which boasts lovely sea views.

Tate St Ives - geograph.org.uk - 1208300. Photo by Sarah Charlesworth, via Wikimedia Commons.

The series offers includes sweeping views of two of Cornwall’s most popular fishing villages, Mevagissey and of Padstow.  Mevagissey, on the south coast, is popular not only for its own charms, but also for its proximity to the beautiful Lost Gardens of Heligan.  Padstow, on the north coast, is above all famous for its seafood scene, dominated by Rick Stein’s outlets, earning it the nickname Padstein.

A CAMPSITE WITH A DIFFERENCE: MALHAM COVE/HARRY POTTER AND THE DEATHLY HALLOWS

 In Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, when Harry and Hermione find somewhere to set up camp while fleeing Lord Voldemort following the departure of Ron Weasley, they choose a rather curious place for it. They set up their tent, not on a nice soft grassy meadow, but on a cracked limestone ‘pavement’ on top of a cliff.  This is Malham Cove, a unique geological feature in the Yorkshire Dales.  

Malham C0ve 2021 (slight fog). Photo by Addshore, via Wikimedia Commons.

Malham Cove is a curved limestone cliff face 70 metres high which is formed along the line of the Middle Craven Fault.  The unique shape of the cliff arises from the action of water and ice over millions of years.  It is possible to walk up to the limestone pavement, but be aware that the walk takes in some steep climbs and rugged terrain.  Once at the top, care must be taken when negotiating the pavement due to its uneven, cracked surface.  A short distance from the top is a body of water called Malham Tarn, and the famous Gordale Scar is also nearby.  Back in Malham village there are a number of refreshment options and places to stay.

Map of the area.

LITERARY PUBS: THE NEW INN, CLOVELLY

It is amazing how often Charles Dickens’ name crops up when I am researching literary pubs.  The New Inn in Clovelly is one of the many hostelries visited by the writer during his lifetime.  He supped there in 1860, and he renamed the village Steepways when writing about it for the magazine All the Year Round.

Other authors who visited the inn include Sir Walter Raleigh, who stayed there on his honeymoon, Charles Kingsley and Josephine Tozier.  Tozier produced a book named Among English Inns and included a piece about the New Inn, describing it as “a doll’s inn”, "perfectly proportioned" and stuffed with breakable china objects. 

The New Inn is one of two inns in the pretty North Devon village of Clovelly, which is subject to an entrance charge.  For the first-time visitor it is immediately apparent why Dickens named the village Steepways, as the main street running through the village is so steep that coming back up necessitates frequent stops for breath, even for the fittest.  However, it is well worth the visit, both for the village itself and for the wonderful views along the coast.

Clovelly, The New Inn (10857529533). Photo courtesy of National Media Museum, via Wikimedia Commons.