LITERARY PUBS: THE BELL INN, MORETON-IN-MARSH

One recurring feature of Tolkien’s Hobbit tales is the tavern called The Prancing Pony in the fictional town of Bree.  The tavern forms part of an important scene in the first of the trilogy of Lord of the Rings films, being where Frodo and his friends first encounter Aragorn, who is sitting there in a hooded coat smoking a pipe.

While living in Oxford, Tolkien used to frequent the Cotswolds town Moreton-in-Marsh to meet up with his London-based brother. The brothers got together at the Bell Inn, a honey-coloured stone pub in the town’s main street, and this is believed to be the inspiration for the Prancing Pony.  A local branch of the Tolkien Society has had a blue plaque placed by the entrance to commemorate the pub’s connection to Tolkien and his work. The inn was a popular stopover for horse-drawn coaches in the days before the arrival of the railway, and the arched entrance used by the coaches matches the arch in Tolkien’s description of the inn.

Bell Inn Moreton in Marsh back in time. Photo by Ian Alexander, via Wikimedia Commons.

Map of the area.

A BIRK OF A WORK: ROBERT BURNS/ABERFELDY

 I often feel the need for a special dictionary when reading the works of Scotland’s most celebrated poet, Robert Burns.  When I came across The Birks of Aberfeldy I had no idea what a birk was.  Turns out it is Gaelic for birch trees, and these are the trees overlooking the Falls of Moness on the outskirts of Aberfeldy, which provided the inspiration for this poem. There is a woodland walk taking in the scene, complete with a statue of Burns.

The Birks of Aberfeldy, Robert Burns statue - geograph.org.uk - 1195252. Photo by Bill Clark, via Wikimedia Commons.

The poem invites a “bony lassie” to go to the birks and enjoy the “flowery braes” (steep banks) and “chrystal streamlets”, “the hoary cliffs…crown’d wi’ flowers”, “fragrant spreading shaws” (hawthorn), and the “burnie” (stream) pouring “white o’er the linns (ravines).  

Aberfeldy is a small town on the banks of the River Tay in Perthshire.  As well as the Burns connection, the town’s main claim to fame is the beautiful old stone bridge dating from 1733 and built by British Army officer General Wade. Near the bridge is the Black Watch Monument consisting of a tall cairn topped by a statue of Private Farquhar Shaw dressed in the uniform of the Black Watch Regiment.

Map of the area.

Wade's Bridge

CRISIS IN CORNWALL: PLAYING NICE

Apparently, James Norton did not want to leave Cornwall when the filming of the ITV series Playing Nice came to an end.  Hardly surprising, given the lovely filming locations the lucky so-and-so and his co-stars had the pleasure of filming in.  A stark contrast to the harrowing subject matter of the series, which starts with two couples leaving hospital with each others’ babies after a mix-up and continues with the subsequent war between the two couples involved..  The book the series is based on was set in London, but Cornwall was chosen for the filming for its dramatic backdrops.

The most stunning scenery seen in the series is that of Cornwall’s majestic north coast, with its soaring cliffs and foaming seas.  The house where Miles, the nemesis of Pete (James Norton), and his wife live is the sort of modern multi-million pound mansion which enrages the locals, who feel such properties do not fit in with their surroundings.  The real house is Sand Dunes in Mawgan Porth, a honeypot for celebrities such as Cate Blanchett who have homes there.  Reportedly worth £4 million, the new owners plan to rent it out for a cool £5,000-plus a week. Further along the north coast, Park Head near Porthcothan Beach is where the dramatic scenes of the last episode were filmed. The restaurant where Pete's wife Maddie works is Zacry's in real life and is on Watergate Bay near Newquay.

Porthcothan Beach - geograph.org.uk - 314452. Photo by Tony Atkin, via Wikimedia Commons.

In the second episode the couples are seen using an outdoor swimming pool.  The scenes were shot at the Jubilee Pool in Penzance, a fine example of a 1930s art deco lido.  It is Grade II listed and widely recognised as one of the best surviving examples of such pools.  I grew up in Penzance and during the summer holidays I practically lived in the Pool as I called it.  The opening day of the season was the highlight of my year, and I would head down there eagerly to get my season ticket.  I can’t remember how much it cost, but it must have been affordable because we were not a particularly well-off family.  Nowadays it would be a very different proposition, as the pool is now geothermal and entry includes a sauna, with prices to match, although there is a discount for locals.

Jubilee Pool, Penzance - geograph.org.uk - 5790808. Photo by Chris Allen, via Wikimedia Commons.

The second episode also offers a glimpse of another iconic building: the Tate St Ives.  This is where Miles and his wife hold a charity event.  The Tate commands a wonderful position overlooking Porthmeor Beach, and anyone visiting must be sure not to miss the cafe on the top floor, which boasts lovely sea views.

Tate St Ives - geograph.org.uk - 1208300. Photo by Sarah Charlesworth, via Wikimedia Commons.

The series offers includes sweeping views of two of Cornwall’s most popular fishing villages, Mevagissey and of Padstow,with one of the most harrowing scenes in the last episode starting out in Mevagissey.  Mevagissey, on the south coast, is popular not only for its own charms, but also for its proximity to the beautiful Lost Gardens of Heligan.  Padstow, on the north coast, is above all famous for its seafood scene, dominated by Rick Stein’s outlets, earning it the nickname Padstein.

A CAMPSITE WITH A DIFFERENCE: MALHAM COVE/HARRY POTTER AND THE DEATHLY HALLOWS

 In Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, when Harry and Hermione find somewhere to set up camp while fleeing Lord Voldemort following the departure of Ron Weasley, they choose a rather curious place for it. They set up their tent, not on a nice soft grassy meadow, but on a cracked limestone ‘pavement’ on top of a cliff.  This is Malham Cove, a unique geological feature in the Yorkshire Dales.  

Malham C0ve 2021 (slight fog). Photo by Addshore, via Wikimedia Commons.

Malham Cove is a curved limestone cliff face 70 metres high which is formed along the line of the Middle Craven Fault.  The unique shape of the cliff arises from the action of water and ice over millions of years.  It is possible to walk up to the limestone pavement, but be aware that the walk takes in some steep climbs and rugged terrain.  Once at the top, care must be taken when negotiating the pavement due to its uneven, cracked surface.  A short distance from the top is a body of water called Malham Tarn, and the famous Gordale Scar is also nearby.  Back in Malham village there are a number of refreshment options and places to stay.

Map of the area.

LITERARY PUBS: THE NEW INN, CLOVELLY

It is amazing how often Charles Dickens’ name crops up when I am researching literary pubs.  The New Inn in Clovelly is one of the many hostelries visited by the writer during his lifetime.  He supped there in 1860, and he renamed the village Steepways when writing about it for the magazine All the Year Round.

Other authors who visited the inn include Sir Walter Raleigh, who stayed there on his honeymoon, Charles Kingsley and Josephine Tozier.  Tozier produced a book named Among English Inns and included a piece about the New Inn, describing it as “a doll’s inn”, "perfectly proportioned" and stuffed with breakable china objects. 

The New Inn is one of two inns in the pretty North Devon village of Clovelly, which is subject to an entrance charge.  For the first-time visitor it is immediately apparent why Dickens named the village Steepways, as the main street running through the village is so steep that coming back up necessitates frequent stops for breath, even for the fittest.  However, it is well worth the visit, both for the village itself and for the wonderful views along the coast.

Clovelly, The New Inn (10857529533). Photo courtesy of National Media Museum, via Wikimedia Commons.

A NORTHERN RETREAT FOR A ROYAL: THE KINGMAKER'S DAUGHTER/MIDDLEHAM CASTLE

 The Kingmaker’s Daughter by Philippa Gregory is the story of Anne Neville, daughter of Richard Neville, otherwise known as the “Kingmaker”, and briefly the wife of King Richard III.  A repeated theme throughout the story is the threat posed by the Queen Consort Elizabeth Woodville, arch enemy of Richard Nevill, who is suspected of poisoning those close to Anne, To get away from this threat, Anne repeatedly decamps to her home in the north at Middleham Castle in Yorkshire.

MiddlehamCJW. Photo by CJW, via Wikimedia Commons.

Middleham Castle lies in the village of Middleham, a short distance south of Leyburn in Wensleydale.  Building of the castle started in 1190, and from 1270 it was taken over by the Neville family..  The “Kingmaker” and his family occupied the castle in the 15th century, and the future King Richard III went to live there for a time in his younger years, then when he married Anne Neville they made it their home.  The castle is now managed by English Heritage, and there is an entrance fee to visit.

Map of the area.

COMEDY IN THE COTSWOLDS: THIS COUNTRY

 This Country is what is commonly known as a ‘mockumentary’ or mock documentary.  The series charts the lives of siblings Kerry (Daisy May Cooper) and Kurtan (Charlie Cooper), who live in a boring Cotswolds village. Daisy and Charlie, who also wrote the series, are brother and sister in real life.

The series was shot in a number of locations around the Cotswolds, but the main focus is Northleach, which features as Kerry and Kurtan’s home village.  The first episode opens with them at one of their favourite hangouts, the village bus stop.  The bus stop in real life offers connections to both Oxford and Cheltenham. Kerry’s home is a house on an estate in the village, and the house in real life is at 15 Fortey Road. 

Other locations in Northleach to look out for in the series include the village allotments, seen in an episode in which Kerry is put in charge of some chickens.  The village church in the series, St Mary’s, is played by the Church of St Peter and St Paul in the centre of Northleach, known as the Cathedral of the Cotswolds.  Meanwhile, the Westwoods Centre, a village sports and community centre, plays the role of the Vicar’s office.

Northleach is a classic Cotswold wool village; the wool trade hit the big time from 1340 to 1540 when a lot of money was made from exports to Europe.  The village church is a reminder of the prosperity enjoyed during that time.  Today the meadows surrounding the village still resound to the baas of the local sheep.  As well as looking up the locations used in This Country, visitors can explore The Old Prison and its cafe, and Keith Harding’s World of Mechanical Music.  The village lies just off the A40 14 miles east of Cheltenham.

Map of the area.

Northleach, 1994, Market Square - geograph.org.uk - 4707633. Photo by Ben Brooksbank, via Wikimedia Commons.